Spanish & Portuguese Atlantic Coast
We have spent the past three weeks sailing down the Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal – windswept capes, towering cliffs, ancient forts and lighthouses, windfarms, seemingly endless stretches of golden sands and all the while dodging octopus/squid pots, mussel farms and set lines. We had our lines out most days, but no fish, yet, damn.
Travelling down the coast we came across many walkers, all spiritually high on their Camino de Santiago adventure, we didn’t make the pilgrimage ourselves to Santiago de Compostela, it would have been a day out and we wanted to keep moving south.
From A Coruña, Ría de Camariñas, Ría de Arousa, Ría de Vigo, Baiona, Póvoa de Varzim, Leixões, Porto, Figueira da Foz, Peniche, Cascais, Lisbon, Sesimbra to Sines – we were waiting for the weather to warm up so we could put those puffers away! Most days the average temp has been 15° -18° (not taking into account the wind chill factor) apparently quite unseasonal, as it should be in the upper 20° to lower 30°. The wind has been behind us most of the way, a constant light NNW therefore more motoring that we would have liked but putting the sails up when we could – especially our favourite “Blue Passion” – our fabulous downwind sail.
Most nights we found safe anchorage in south facing bays tucked up rivers (ria) near towns and took the occasional marina berth when we needed to service equipment – every port we have visited has a reasonably sized fishing fleet and up north some with thousands of mussel nurseries.
A friend of Matt’s, Rich Moors, joined us in Moana (Ría de Vigo) on his way back to New Zealand for his 10 weeks off from superyachting, he only had a few nights with us which coincided with our big Baiona night (Gin Bar 34 gins on offer, entertained by a Brit delivery crew – skipper Desmond, son George and ex-Army Luke) and large Lexioes night when we finally christened NOETA.
Our favourite place down the coast was Porto, OK a bit touristy, but the old town tumbling down the hill to the Doura river is entrancing. Across the river by bridge is Gaia, home to the port houses, tasting is a must and I am now a bit partial to the odd glass of porto blanco (white port)… and upon recommendation tried a porto e tônica – a very refreshing midday aperitif.
As you travel down the coast you can’t help but get a sense of where it all began - the Age of Discovery 1400s – 1700s a period of overseas exploration led by the Spanish and Portuguese and the beginning of globalisation! 1492 Columbus sailed the ocean blue, and in his quest to discover a westward route to Asia discovered the New World of the Americas, bringing back corn, tobacco, chilli pepper, the hammock... while in Baiona we checked out a replica of La Pinta, the first of the two ships who made it back, she was 17m x 5.36m (smaller than our NOETA at 15m x 8m) and home to 24 men, she set sail in 1492 and after one month was the first to sight the new world, then returning in 1493, again taking one month, she was the first to bring back the news of discovery at Baiona. 1498 Vasco da Gama discovered the Indian sea route enabling Portugal to wrest the spice trade from Venice and establish its position in European trade. He is celebrated and buried in Lisbon, he was born in Sines.
Lisbon is an interesting architectural mix – the odd piece of ultramodern, very little truly old because of the devastating 1755 earthquake/tsunami/fire, but good 18th century rebuild, some stunning art deco and the usual mixture of ramshackle shabby chic (rundown/renovation).
Amanda and Duncan left us in Lisbon, I heard them trundle off down the jetty at some ungodly hour, we were very sad to see them go, they have been such an integral part of our maiden voyage. But Matt aka Roger, is still with us, so a part of them remains.
Last Friday we turned the corner, around Cabo de São Vincente in to the Algarve and warmer weather! Lagos, Alvor, Portimão, Ferrugo… stunning golden sand beaches, tourists…to be continued…