Gibraltar & Morocco
The past 12 days have been spent exploring Gibraltar, crossing the Strait to Morocco via Ceuta and then back again to the Costa del Sol, Spain. Every day a new adventure, new challenges…
We liked Gibraltar. We spent four nights there as we had to get yet another Raymarine technician on board to sort out a few things, but also wanted to explore the town and the Rock. And it really is just a big quaint town, you get the sense talking to locals that everyone knows everyone, who’s up who and who hasn’t paid … population seems to be a mixture of Spanish, British and born-and-bred Gibs (who are probably a good Spanish/British blend anyway), everyone speaks both languages, and the true locals have a Welsh sounding lilt. The British are a mixture of tourists and immigrants, all wanting to get away from Britain to a better place. The main street is a long thoroughfare lined with discreet legal offices, cafes and shops selling jewellery, electronics, alcohol, cigarettes and clothes, all tax free, and very cheap, cheapest we have seen so far.
The Rock defines the place, well there really isn’t any flat land until you cross the frontier (airport runway) into Spain to the north, and a day well spent climbing all over it. Steep!!! Mediterranean steps to the south, along ridges and valleys, through 1700 siege tunnels and WWII tunnels and Barbary ape troops, still managing to retain their dignity, just.
Leaving we filled up with diesel 50p, at least half of what we have paid so far, and when your tanks are 900 litre every euro or pence makes a difference.
Our Strait crossing took us four hours with a 30 knot SW wind, so not easily sailable, time better spent keeping a lookout for freighters and tankers.
Arriving in Ceuta, a small Spanish enclave, we had yet another mountain, Monte Hacho, to climb, this time with an old Moorish fort still in use by the military, so couldn’t get inside but good views back across to the Rock and down to Morocco proper. Our American marina neighbour Andre had his dog Ash on board, so treats all round! Dinner on NOETA, dog walks and a visit to a homeless cat shelter (bizarre).
The Levante had arrived from the east while we were in Ceuta, bringing low lying heavy fog and 30 metre visibility upon departure – scary! So off down to Smir, exciting to be in Morocco, but harder work dealing with money, data, language, bureaucracy and no alcohol when eating out. We were in luck, the King was in residence in one of his family holiday homes along the beach, so very clean streets and brightly coloured flags, we didn’t see him but did see lots of guards. Upon arrival at the marina we were greeted by Rachid, “Mr Morocco” a local self-styled tour guide who knows everyone, he immediately offered his services to take us inland to Tétouan and Chefchaouen (Chaouen) – it was worth it, he really did know his stuff and most people.
The old Tétouan medina was a confusing maze of narrow streets, craftsmen, merchants and markets - yes we bought some fabulous rugs from Mustapha at Dar Lebbadi www.facebook.com/dar lebbadi - and the next day a longer drive to Chauon, the blue medina on a hill, with clear spring water flowing from cliffs down the valley, magic - yes we bought a beautiful blue woven blanket and Berber jewellery. Rachid took us back through the magnificent Rif mountains, fertile valley plains where most of Morocco’s cannabis is grown and along the coastline, a great day trip.
On our last night we were befriended by a delightful French couple Veronique and Arnaud - having moved there a year ago they had the lowdown .. and two dogs including a Jack Russell - Gino! The lowdown, the King is very popular and is trying to make a difference but it’s still very hard if you are a woman or poor, oh and if you want to buy alcohol and other “western goods” the return drive to Ceuta can take all day with most of it spent at the border. Because smuggling is big – people and drugs - we saw lots of confiscated boats at both Ceuta and Smir marinas, had several radio conversations with the Moroccan Coastguard and heard many PANPANs when crossing the Straight.
Back across the Strait to the Costa del Sol took us six hours with an incoming tide and 30 knot SW wind, so again not easily sailable, and time better spent tracking and avoiding multiple freighters and tankers, simultaneously - good radio practice.
The Costa del Sol – taupe beaches, many seaside apartments, colourful umbrellas and hot. We spent two days trying to find a Spanish port that would stamp us back into Spain - Sotogrande, Marbella, not that easy, but finally yesterday in Fuengirola – success! It was a short walk to the National Police station, it did take several hours but at least it was air conditioned and we had got our data up and running.
Enjoying our anchorage in Fuengirola, we are the people on the catamaran that you look at longingly from the beach, unreal.
End of the day, clear calm water, cool breeze, must be time for a martini……